Monday, April 21, 2014

The difference between Cajun and Creole

Our Lady of Rocheblave and Our Lady of Dourgenois
When people come to visit New Orleans, they expect to meet some Cajuns.  Sorry, but Cajuns aren't native to New Orleans.  They are native to Louisiana, but they live out in the swamp, not in the city.  The descendants of the original French and Spanish families, and their slaves, and the Haitians who moved to the city after the Haitian Revolution, are called Creoles.  Ours is a Creole culture, not a Cajun one.  
Breakfast in New Orleans
There are a lot of cooking shows on television nowadays.  Frau Schmitt and I always drive past the billboard on North Broad Avenue that touts Willie Mae's Scotch House, which is just six blocks behind our house.  According to the billboard, the Food Network, which hosts a whole smorgasbord of cooking shows, says that Wille Mae's serves the best fried chicken in America.  According to the first review listed on Google+: "Believe the hype!"

Sometimes, we go to Sammy's Food Service and Deli on Elysian Fields Avenue for lunch.  Guy Fieri, who has a show on the Food Network, autographed a poster that hang's in Sammy's dining room. According to Guy Fieri, Sammy's serves some of the finest food in all of American's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.  He also signed a poster at Katie's, which is on North Telemachus Street, where we also often go for lunch.  

Chefs who host cooking shows love visiting New Orleans.  Everyone else who loves to eat loves New Orleans.  It's like loving life.
Sitting room in Le Pelican Suite
Frau Schmitt and I are usually too busy tidying up the inn to watch much television.  I'm not going to tell you that innkeeping is a difficult profession, but it does take a lot of attention to details.  There are only so many hours in a day.  Rather than watch TV shows about New Orleans, we live in the city.  360 degrees of real life.  It always smells delicious here.  

When I was much younger, my father liked to watch cooking shows.  We all have our vices.  This was his.  Back in those days, cooking shows were mainly on PBS.  It was considered educational television rather than entertaining television.  No company would think of buying an ad to support a cooking show-- not many people watched them back in the day.

One of my father's favorite shows was hosted by Justin Wilson.  My father had a deep love for New Orleans.  He went to school here and, though he didn't revisit the city as often as he may have liked, it made an impression on him that couldn't be erased.  Justin Wilson was a Cajun, not a Creole.  Up north in Connecticut, it was close enough.  Here is a sample of Justin Wilson cooking gumbo:

My father also liked Jeff Smith who was the Frugal Gourmet on PBS.  Mr. Smith was as fussy as Mr. Wilson was relaxed.  In the following sample, the Frugal Gourmet cooks Creole.  You can see the difference in the two approaches.


Both these cooks give a lesson on New Orleans cooking culture.  Justin Wilson just is who he is.  He's hard to understand but you can't help but like him.  That's the way most people are in New Orleans.  Creole cooking is similar to Cajun cooking, but they are distinctly different.  Jeff Smith is more analytical, approaching the city from the outside and falling in love in the process.  It happens all the time.  Spend enough time in New Orleans and you will take away a bellyful of appreciation.

The other day, the New Orleans Advocate, the newspaper I read before guests show up in the morning, published an article about the houses on Esplanade Avenue.  Ours is mentioned in the middle, in paragraph 11, the way we are smack in the middle of Esplanade Avenue.  The writer made a small mistake; our house and its immediate neighbors were built in 1883, not in the 1890s.  Nobody expects precision in New Orleans.  Like adding a teaspoon of hot sauce to gumbo, close is good enough to taste.

A slide show accompanies the article, but I'm not entirely pleased by the photo they used of our house.  Let's take another look at this picture that I took the other day after the race.  I like it:
2200 block of Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans
Tour guides like to point out that these houses are painted in traditionally joyous Creole colors.  This is partly true.  The paint wasn't picked by any native Creoles, but they seemed appropriate to the streetscape.  Plenty of people seem to agree.  Sit on the front porch or on the balconies and you'll see people stopping to snap photos all day long.  We live in a local landmark.  It isn't just the paint jobs--the houses would be beautiful even if they were painted white.

What's the difference between Cajun and Creole?  It is a matter of degree.  Cajuns live in the country.  They live in the swamp.  They paddle pirogues on the bayous.  Creoles live in the city.  They are urban and urbane.  Each have very different accents and different colloquialisms.  We'll be exploring those things another day.  In the meantime, think about visiting New Orleans to discover a world very different from where you live.  It's very nice here.  It is unfamiliar but very welcoming.  No matter where you go, it is very hard to have a bad meal.

Emeril Legasse, who is from Fall River, Massachusetts of all places, is as New Orleans as anyone else.  He knows his way around a Creole kitchen.  Think about him what you will, but he knows New Orleans even better than Guy Fieri does.

It's the difference between someone who lives in New Orleans and someone who lives in the rest of Louisiana.  New Orleans is a unique world all its own.
A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.

Saturday, April 19, 2014

Crescent City Classic 2014

Esplanade Avenue after the Crescent City Classic
The Crescent City Classic is an annual 10k road race that goes down Esplanade Avenue every spring.  It went by our house this morning.  This is what it was like:

1.  9:30 last night some trucks stopped in front of our house to set up an archway over the street at the 3-mile mark.  While they were setting up, a driver heading lakeside up Esplanade Avenue was gawking at the work in progress and he rear ended the car in front of him.  The police arrived and flashed their lights at least until 30 minutes past midnight. 

2.  At 5:00 this morning another work crew arrived to install a sound system and make a general racket putting the finishing touches on the archway.  They finished up about an hour later.  They enjoyed listening to classic rock while they went about their business.

3.  The race started at 8:00AM.  By 8:15 the first runners went by our house with police escort.  Motorcycle police with sirens.  It's a different layout every year.  This year we had water stations set up two houses down from us and portable toilets in the park across the street from us.  Some years, there is nobody but us and the neighbors watching the race.  This year, there was a crowd in the 2200 block of Esplanade Avenue, everyone cheering.

4.  The last of the walkers passed by, bringing up the lagging rear, at about 10:30.  Then the street was a wasteland of empty conical paper cups.  The sheriff's department came by and prisoners picked up all the trash.  Nice guys.  All of them smiling as they went about their assigned duties in orange OPP (Orleans Parish Prison) jumpsuits.  It was beautiful weather.

5.  By 11:30 all the trash had been picked up.  The archway was disassembled and you wouldn't have known there was a race today except for the people wearing numbers walking back to the French Quarter from City Park.  Everyone seemed to be in a good mood.
2200 block of Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans
There is no parking on our street between midnight and noon on the day when the Crescent City Classic is running.  I took advantage of the lack of cars in front of our house to take a picture.  As I mentioned above, it was a beautiful morning.  It's springtime in New Orleans.

I wasn't the only person taking pictures of our house.  People are always stopping to snap a few pics.  I fit right in.  I never get tired of taking pictures of our inn and it's neighbors.  The inn is the orange building in the middle.  2216 Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70119.
A closer view
The sun was so bright and the day was so cloudless that I haven't doctored the exposure or the shadows of these pictures.  This is what it looks like to live in New Orleans in the middle of April.  We love it here.  Most people do.  If you can't be happy in New Orleans... well, I don't know what to say about that.

Let's take a closer look at those three houses.  They were all built at the same time, in 1883, by the same man.  He built them for the old Creole families who were moving out of the French Quarter at the time.  The Quarter was being overrun by Sicilian immigrants and the old French families wanted a change of scenery.
2212 Esplanade Avenue
The blue house was built to be a one-family domicile.  
2216 Esplanade Avenue
The orange house was built for two families, side by side.  The actual address is 2216 on the riverside and 2218 on the lakeside of the building.
2222 Esplanade Avenue
The green house was also built for two families; one on the ground floor and one on the second story.  The addresses for this building were originally 2220 for the porch and 2222 for the balcony.

When I sit out front waiting for guests to arrive, I have the opportunity to chat with people walking by.  They all have nice things to say about the paint jobs.  These are cheerful landmarks in the middle of one of the most beautiful streets in New Orleans.  It is like magic to live here, whether you spend a lifetime or just a few nights.

We like it here.  You will, too.  If you don't... well, I don't what to say about that.

A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.

Let's take one last look at all three:
Middle of the 2200 block of Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Little things mean a lot

Clio Suite
Angels dwell in details.  As I'm sure I've mentioned before, every room in our inn is a different color.  This doesn't only mean the walls.  All the ceilings are a different color, too.  Shall we take a tour of the ceilings in the Clio Suite?  I don't have anything better to do.

When the suites are unoccupied, I like to linger in them.  By unoccupied, I mean that no one is currently staying in them.  They aren't rented.  I don't hang out with people's luggage while they're out sightseeing and having adventures.  

Someone rang our doorbell the other day and asked to see all the suites.  "I thought that everyone would be out in the afternoon and you could show me the rooms.  I have family coming to town in June and I'd like to rent the whole house, but I want to see the suites first," she said.

I informed her that the house was full.  "You mean everybody's home?" she asked.  I answered, "No, but all the suites are rented.  If you rented a suite, would you want strangers traipsing through?"

"I don't see what difference it would make if they're not here," she answered.  It was a difference of opinion and our opinion mattered more.  When you stay with us, your space is sacrosanct.  Frau Schmitt or I, or Tammie the Housekeeper, will go into the suite to change replace the glasses, make the bed, sweep the floor, and clean the bathroom, but nobody else.  Nobody else.  What you do in the suite is nobody's business.  Not even ours.  We are very discreet.
Tammie the Housekeeper
We are not a hotel.  We are a small boutique inn.  Our inn meant to be an oasis.  I informed our visitor that I thought we have a day toward the end of May when the house will be empty.  That was as of this writing.  It being May in New Orleans, we will probably have people staying with us that day, too, but not as of this writing, and we won't be able to show any rooms that are occupied.  "The end of next month is a little close to when I want to make a reservation," she told me, "I'll see if someone else will show me their rooms."  I bid her goodbye.

I don't know what the policies are at other B&Bs.  Maybe someone else will let her see their guests' unmentionables.  We won't.  If we don't get her business, so it goes.  We think some things are more important than getting as much business as we possibly we can.  As professional innkeepers, we are in this for the long haul, trying to do what is right.  By doing what it right consistently, we hope to build our reputation.  It takes time, but it is the right thing to do.  What's the point in having locks if anyone off the street can go into your rooms?

Didn't this start out as a tour of ceilings?  It was supposed to be.
Corner in Clio
The ceilings in the Clio Suite are purple.  The walls in Clio's sitting room are a shade of teal.  The ceiling in the sitting room is a dark purple.  Why not?  Frau Schmitt always tells me, "You can't be afraid of color."  She is usually right about these things.  We love the fact that our house is so colorful.  Our guests do, too.  Have you ever slept in a room with purple ceilings?  It's very relaxing.
Another corner in Clio
The bedroom in the Clio Suite is pink.  I know, teal and pink.  It shouldn't work, but it does.  It works because of the purple ceilings.  The ceiling in the bedroom is a bit lighter.  There are angels in the details.
Also the Clio Suite
There are about 150 licensed B&Bs in New Orleans.  There are plenty of unlicensed ones, as well.  We are licensed, inspected, bonded, and insured.  We are up to code.  We are professionals.  As ambassadors for our city, our job is to ensure that you are comfortable and cared for.  Our job is to ensure that you enjoy your stay.  Our job is to ensure that you leave New Orleans full of good memories.  Everyone has stories to tell after they leave New Orleans.  Our job is to ensure that our guests have only good stories to tell about their stay.

A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.  

Monday, April 7, 2014

Authentic New Orleans

Mayor Mitch Landrieu, courtesy of nola.gov
The city's website used to be cityofno.com.  Not too catchy, is it?  When Mitch Landrieu was elected, he changed it to nola.gov.  I'm not here to play partisan politics, as most visitors are not terribly interested, but I will quote something I read a while back.  Mitch Landrieu seems to be holding the job he was born to have.  Whether you think it a case of privilege (his father was mayor) or a case of a man who is enthusiastic about going to work, that's not much of my concern.  I think he's a good mayor, for whatever my opinion is worth.

Frau Schmitt and I met him once.  We were at the coffee shop in The Rink, which is on Prytania Street.  A bald guy was buying a pound of coffee in line in front of us.  He turned around and introduced himself.  "I'm Mitch. What are your names?" he said.

We had a nice conversation.  He seemed genuinely perplexed that we would move from Boston to New Orleans.  "It's so nice in Boston," he said.  We pointed out that there's more snow in Boston than there is in New Orleans and he couldn't argue that point.

There's an interesting article in Politico Magazine that highlights the mayor and his crime strategy.  We don't often discuss the murder rate in New Orleans unless someone asks.  It is high enough to curl most people's hair.  It is much, much, much lower than it was when we moved here four years ago.  It is still more than double the murder rate in Boston, and Boston has twice as many people.  
St. Jospeh Altar, New Orleans
We don't shy away from talking about crime in New Orleans with our guests.  They're already here so there's no point in hiding the truth.

The truth is that we don't see a lot of murders.  Actually, we haven't seen any.  Our part of the city is peaceable.  There isn't even a lot of petty crime in our neighborhood.  It's basically a working families' neighborhood.  It is slowly gentrifying, but it hasn't reached the tipping point, yet.  Once the property values in the Bywater reach their ceiling, I suspect our part of the city will be the next hot real estate market, but that's about a half-decade down the road.  We do have a new Whole Foods supermarket and property values are rising.  Give it time.

People who walk to the French Quarter from our house have to walk under the highway overpass on North Claiborne Avenue, and it's ugly the way most highway projects are.  There are sometimes a panhandler or two under the overpass holding out a sign to the cars stopped at the traffic light, but do you want to know where most of the panhandlers are?  It's where most of the pickpockets and purse snatchers are, too.  They're where the easy marks are: the French Quarter.
Looking up from the Clio Suite balcony
We live a relaxing stroll away from the French Quarter in one direction and from City Park in the other direction.  Tour buses and bicycle tours pass by our house all day, but the neighborhood, overall, isn't inundated with visitors.  It's very peaceable in this part of New Orleans.  It's close enough to the action while being far enough away that we get a good night's sleep without many cares or concerns.

A lot of people who stay with us want to get an authentic New Orleans experience.  This means different things to different people.  A night on Bourbon Street is as authentically New Orleans as a night on Frenchman Street; the only difference is one of degrees.  Emeril Lagasse has a restaurant called Nola.  Is that more authentic than a dinner at Mandina's?  I'm not one to judge.  It's hard to have a bad meal in this city.  Emeril is pure New Orleans even if he is from Fall River, Mass.  We've never eaten at one of his restaurants, but we're not opposed to it.  They just always seem to be crowded.  
Another tree in front of our house
We've never eaten at Couchon either.  Last year, just about everyone who stayed with us arrived with reservations at Couchon. It's in the Warehouse District and last year you needed reservations to get a seat.  We don't spend a lot of time in the Warehouse District.  Everyone who ate at Couchon enjoyed their meals.  Having a good meal is an authentic New Orleans experience, but is Couchon?  I don't know.  I haven't eaten there.  I can tell you about the jazz brunch at Buffa's though.  I recommend it.  The kitchen is open 24 hours and it's right down our street.

I will tell you something that I've found to be true.  If you have heard about it, it's probably not a place we go to often.  It is probably crowded because these places have to advertise to attract the kind of national attention that they do.  The kind of places we go to don't issue press releases or have PR people.  They don't need them.  They've been around for a long time and they have a dedicated clientele of people who live here.  We live here.  When we go out, we like to see people we know.
Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph Altar, New Orleans
When you live in New Orleans and you go into a shop in the French Quarter, the person behind the cash register asks, "Where are you from?''  You say, "Esplanade Avenue."  They say, "Is that where you're staying?"  You say, "We live on Esplanade Avenue," and the whole tenor of the conversation changes.  

Nobody asks us where we're from at the places we usually go to.  They don't need to.  Nobody cares.  When you are in the weave of New Orleans, we're all in it together.

A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.  

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

New Orleans Fire Artist

Kerlerec Street, New Orleans
You never know who you'll meet in New Orleans.  We happen to live next to Walker Babington.  Who?  Walker Babington, the Fire Artist.  He's represented by Hyph3n-Art Gallery here in New Orleans.  The other night, he invited us to his opening, during which he set himself on fire in a piece of performance that left a lasting impression on a wooden canvas (if such a term exists).  You can see the video here.  He invited us, but we couldn't make it... We had guests due to arrive at the exact same moment that he was immolating himself for art's sake.  Spoiler:  He lived to tell the tale.  I talked to him this morning.

I went down to the corner of Kerlerec and Royal Streets after I talked to him.  He made this 20-foot-tall angel out of wood, blowtorches, and a flame thrower.  I told you he's a fire artist.  He also makes engravings in wood using a magnifying glass and the sun.  As someone who went to art school, let me tell you that Mr. Babington can draw.  He draws very well.  I've seen a couple portraits he's made of Sydney, who is a lovely young lady, and I knew exactly who she was supposed to be.  

How's that for high praise?

The angel is beautiful.  After I took its picture I saw it reflected in the front window of the R Bar:
Entrance to R Bar, corner of Kerlerec and Royal Streets, New Orleans
You can see the reflection on your left.  Mr. Babington told me they are going to take it down in the next day or so, but that it will be installed nearby for posterity.  Good.  It's a very solid piece of work, both in the physical and in the aesthetic sense.

You may think that is enough to make for an interesting day.  If you do, you don't live in New Orleans.  I also went to the bank.  Here's the bank we use:
201 N. Carrolton Avenue, New Orleans
Every time I see this building, I think that the architect had a few too many sazeracs before he sat down at his drafting table.  Then, I look at the bank's logo and I think maybe it's all part of an ugly master plan.
Gulf Coast Bank & Trust Company logo
If I find the bank's aesthetics so off-putting (and I do), you may wonder why I go there...
Gulf Coast Bank lobby
There's never a line.  The tellers are very nice, too.  And the branch manager?  Let me tell you, she's a real professional.  She's a regular fountain of banking information.  No line and excellent personable staff.  When I bank at Gulf Coast, I know I'm not at Capital One, which is just four buildings down.

How's that for high praise?

After I got home, I was looking at the picture we have hanging over the fireplace in the lobby.  It was taken around 1905.
Corner of Esplanade Avenue and North Miro Street, New Orleans
It being a sunny day, and me with my camera and all, I decided to walk half a block to snap a pic of what these houses look today.
Corner of Esplanade Avenue and North Miro Street, New Orleans
The house on the left is still there.  The trees have grown a bit in last 110 years.  You'll also notice that in 2014 everything is in color.    Times change but the bones of New Orleans remain the same.  

You never know who or what you'll see in New Orleans, but I think Trader Vic described the city best:

It is a city "where those merry souls who make drinking a pleasure, who achieve contentedness long before capacity, and who, whenever they drink, prove able to carry it and enjoy it, and remain gentlemen."  I couldn't have said it better myself.

A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.  

Monday, March 31, 2014

Good Guests Make Good Company

Good company
If you are like me you read a lot of innkeeping industry trade journals.  Alright, I don't read too many, but I do read them occasionally.  I was reading one today that reported, "Bed and breakfasts, overall, attract seasoned travelers who appreciate a well-catered experience that includes attentive service, attractive surroundings, and attention to details that will make their stay more enjoyable.  B&B travelers seek out high quality at reasonable prices that match the level of experience they expect."  

While this is just a lot of blah, blah, blah, and jargon, it does have a point.  It is very interesting to us the kinds of people who self-select to stay with us.  Good guests make good company and we've had nary a dud in the bunch.

Of course we have online reviews about our inn (ranked #2 on Trip Advisor as of this writing), and we have more traditional word-of-mouth referrals.  We would like to again thank everyone who speaks well of us.  This kind of advertising suits our business model, not because it's essentially free, but because it is more honest.  We could pay someone who has never stayed with us to jigger up an advertising campaign, but would you believe it?

Full disclosure: you can make a reservation at La Belle Esplanade through booking.com (affectionately known as "booking(dot)yeah!" hereabouts).  No offense to anyone who feels compelled to make a reservation based on the above commercial, but this isn't really what we're about.  Frankly, I find it rather embarrassing.  While we enjoy clever wordplay as much as the next person, don't be tempted to substitute the word "booking" for "****ing" when you stay with us.  It isn't as clever as the people who approved that commercial think it is.  

We don't do a lot of advertising, per se.  In fact, this humble blog is our main marketing engine.  No wonder we have plenty of availability.  We live off word-of-mouth, which in this digital age means we live also live off of online reviews.  We don't provide anyone with a script.  They are free to write what they want, pro or con.  If most of our reviews accentuate the positive, that is because most people feel the positives outweigh the negatives.  Your mileage may vary.
Two innkeepers
I've been reading a lot of AirB&B reviews recently.  Most of them focus on how nice the hosts are.  Actually, most AirB&B hosts are "super-nice," "awesome," "very cool," or somesuch and whatnot.  Our reviews also say that we are nice people.  We try.

Actually, we don't really try.  We don't have any background in the hospitality industry.  We just treat people the way we would want to be treated by professional innkeepers.  We are accommodating and we are informative.  We don't mind bending the rules within reason.  We don't mind answering questions or offering opinions.  We see ourselves as something besides service industry professionals.  We see ourselves as ambassadors for our city.  We love living in New Orleans.  We want you to see our adopted home the way we do, with love and respect.

We don't go to the French Quarter much because we don't have many errands to run there.  We're not on vacation.  That doesn't mean you shouldn't go there.  You should.  It's beautiful.  You'll have a good time.  That's what New Orleans is all about.


While most of the AirB&B reviews focus on the hosts, very few say much about the lodgings.  Small wonder.  It's hard to be too enthusiastic about staying in somebody's crummy illegally sub-let apartment.  My favorite part of reviews from our guests are the parts about our house.  It is a beautiful place and we are very proud of it.  Let's take another look at that exterior again:
Les quatre belles d'Esplanade
If anyone is tempted, you can always follow us on Facebook, another marketing avenue that we don't pay too much attention to.  We have an account under La Belle Esplanade.  I don't provide a button on this blog because I can't be bothered.  Maybe I should.  It isn't a business account.  It's just us.  We don't see much worth in pretending to be something we aren't.  You have two friends in New Orleans.  

We'd like to take the time to specially thank Ann for providing us with today's photos from her recent visit.  Nice work.

A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.

P.S.  One thing you won't read about on AirB&B reviews is a review of breakfast.  We put out a nice spread every morning.  We are proud of that, too.

Friday, March 28, 2014

What kind of bed and breakfast are you looking for?

Olive salad, pickled broccoli and apple fritters
What kind of B&B are you looking for today?  I know I've mentioned before that we put out a nice spread for breakfast.  Every B&B says that, don't they?  Here, we mean it.  You won't start the day hungry.  There is something for every taste.
Mango juice, homemade jams and fresh Pontchatoula strawberries
Strawberries have been in season for a few weeks now in Louisiana.  They come from Pontchatoula, the "Strawberry Capitol of the World."   This year's Strawberry Ball is being held in Pontchatoula tomorrow, March 29th.  Unfortunately we have guests checking in, otherwise we'd be going.
Coffee with chicory, the New Orleans way
Today we served crab cakes, among other delicacies.  Tomorrow is sausage from Terranova's up the street.  4th generation sausage makers.  They still make it by hand.  I've seen both father and son at it.  Teamwork.  They make muffalettas on Saturday mornings only.  They usually sell out by 1:00, so get there early.

So, what kind of B&B are you looking for?  It isn't an idle question.  It was posed this morning by one of our guests.  It wasn't Charles Schwab, but it was the next best thing.  Four lovely ladies from Texas are visiting.  Are there any other kind of ladies from Texas?



Charles Schwab probably has trademarked the phrase, "Own your tomorrow."  Too bad.  I like it.  La Belle Esplanade needs a slogan. It needs a lot of things, like a stuffed alligator in the lobby or an open bar.  Since it is taking me a very long time to find a stuffed alligator and an open bar probably isn't the best idea, I've settled on trying to think up a slogan.  After all, what else do I have to do while I'm sitting on the front porch?

Frau Schmitt will tell you that I could be spending my time on plenty of more productive projects, and she is usually right about these things.  I've never been accused of being practical, though.

In the meantime, I have something to occupy my thoughts.

Until then,
A votre santé,
La Belle Esplanade bed and breakfast.
We're the kind of B&B you're looking for.
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